Margaret is dying. She’s almost 90 and has chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD), a condition of the lungs that limits airflow and causes shortness of breath. She’s been on hospice care at home for many months and is ready to die.
Usually when I visit her, she has very little appetite. Her children want her to eat and offer her meals, snacks, and beverages every few minutes while I am there. “Mom, how about some toast?” one asks. Margaret shakes her head slowly. “I’m not hungry,” she says softly.
“Just a bite of toast, Mom? Please?” the daughter urges, putting a plate of toast in front of her.
Margaret takes a bite of toast, looking down at the plate. She gestures slightly with the toast and asks me, “Is this the toast?” She no longer remembers the names of many things.
“Yes,” I confirm. I deliberately do not encourage her to eat more of the toast.
Later I mention to the children that appetite loss is normal for people approaching death. I’ve told them this before, but I know that watching your mother die is difficult and I don’t know what they remember of our previous conversations. I tell them again as if it’s the first time.
I know firsthand how hard it is to watch a person you love refuse food, especially when shared meals have been important to family life for years. Margaret’s kitchen is stocked with beautiful blue Le Creuset cookware, indicating that food preparation has been taken seriously.
One of the ways I demonstrated my love for my husband Tom was by cooking for him. When we met, I was learning how to cook meat after being a vegetarian for 25 years. As a hard-core carnivore, he was happy to give me assignments: learn ten ways to make chicken, talk to the guy who owns the local meat shop about the best cut of beef for slow cooking, and of course, come up with 7 different recipes involving bacon to celebrate Bacon Week (which doesn’t technically exist, but did in his house, and ran from Christmas to New Year’s).
After his stroke, I knew his recovery was going well when he started asking for very specific foods and dishes: tangerines with crème fraiche, a combination of red and green grapes, chicken pot pie with fresh thyme. He had a sweet tooth after the stroke and loved root beer floats and chocolate eclairs—so I kept root beer and ice cream on hand. I discovered the Whole Foods bakery made chocolate eclairs on Tuesdays and Fridays and I got them delivered. He took joy in eating, thanking me for whatever I gave him and often bragging to his medical team about how well I fed him.
About a month before he died, his appetite began to wane. He no longer got excited about his morning coffee and sometimes wanted to go to bed without dinner. I made his favorite dishes—macaroni and cheese, fried chicken, chilaquiles. I made a side of bacon to go with whatever I cooked. Sometimes he didn’t care. He took a few bites of a chocolate éclair and lost interest. Even juicy fresh fruit lacked appeal for him.
I was crushed. For twelve years, he had loved my cooking and I had loved cooking for him. Cooking for him was one of the ways I made him feel special—not just serving his favorite foods, but setting the table nicely, using cloth napkins every night, sometimes lighting candles. I showed my love for him in a hundred little ways, but cooking for him was one of my favorites.
I now realize that there were signs he was dying well before he died. Like Margaret, he lost his appetite and all interest in food. He wanted to nap even more than usual. At the time, I thought he was just anxious about his upcoming surgery, but now I think he was turning away from this life and preparing for his next adventure.
Just like Margaret’s children, I kept offering food. I thought if I just came up with the right food to offer, he would eat. When he turned down a root beer float, I offered cherry pie. When he showed no interest in fried chicken, I suggested nachos. But none of it interested him.
I wish I had respected his wish to not eat and asked him instead, “What do you want?” If I had let go of my focus on food, he might have asked me to hold his hand or shared a memory with me.
This is the question I bring to Margaret: “What do you want?”
She doesn’t want much—mostly to nap. But sometimes she wants to talk about what death will be like or whether she’ll be reunited with her dead siblings. Often she wants to sit together in silence.
At the end of life, those activities may hold more meaning than eating.
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